Luck of the Draw
Michael’s on the Waterfront was born under an unlucky star. The fledgling eatery opened only 12 days before the coronavirus would shutter the restaurant industry for weeks. But in a crisis there is opportunity, and Michael’s has made the most of it.
The building has seen a parade of tenants with varying senses of style (and varying degrees of quality), but Michael’s has found a quiet and classic aesthetic with polished wood in abundance and just enough TVs to know when the game is on but not so many as to be inundated by it. A server so friendly I could see her smile through her mask only added to the ambience.
On the Menu
The crab fritters pay homage to the local seafood industry with a sweet briny flavor and crispy layer of batter. The remoulade drizzle leaves just enough pepper to let you know it was there. You’ll never talk me out of anything from the crab cake family and these poppably appetizers remind me why.
Don’t miss the jerk spiced pork chop, an exquisitely balanced entree that blends classic southern cuisine with Caribbean spice. The hearty chunks of pineapple chutney absorb the cinnamon and cloves from the seasoning giving it a flavor that’s at once familiar and exotic. The pork itself, charred gently, rests on a bed of mashed potatoes that I couldn’t stop eating. And to tie everything together two stalks of broccolini lend bitterness to the spicy pork and sweet fruit.
The menu boasts a bread pudding but offers no hints to its flavor as it can vary. I’m a little leery of unknown quantities, but Michael’s had built up enough goodwill by now that I felt willing to roll the dice. I was lucky enough to catch a peach version laced with Southern Comfort and pralines. I made myself stop after a dozen or so bites. The dessert mixes textures and flavors seamlessly and should be shared by diners less greedy than I.
There are countless good reasons to make your home along the Cape Fear River. Michael’s on the Waterfront just gave us one more.
Stay tuned for monthly updates on Arth’s Favorite ILM Eats!
